Repairing Weatherstrip on a Car

So recently I was walking by my car,  a 2008 Nissan Xterra, and I noticed one of the rear door weather seal was awkwardly sticking out. I inspected the damage and it seems like it somehow ripped out of the fastener. I tried putting the weather strip back into the fastener but it would not stay.



I looked at different options on how to repair it. First instinct was looking for a OEM weatherstrip replacement but the price was too expensive. Second option was to replace it with an aftermarket weatherstrip, but while comparing the Xterra weatherstrip to the aftermarket it looked a lot different and seemed like it would not work out that well. Lastly, the best option was to use a weatherstrip adhesive to keep the weatherstrip intact.

How to apply weatherstrip adhesive?

1. Buy a weatherstrip adhesive of your choice.  For me I purchased 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive due to the overwhelming positive reviews.

3M Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive


Permatex Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive

The cheapest option I can find if you’re trying to save money. Permatex Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. 

2.  Remove fastener. For my car I had the old fasteners obstructing the path. Since I could no longer use them I decided it was best to remove it so the weatherstrip can fit flat.

Feel free to discard the fastener once your done because they will be bent and useless.

3. Clean the surface of the door and weatherstrip really well with rubbing alcohol or windex.

4. Apply the adhesive on both the door and rubber. The instructions says wait for it to get tacky before putting the surface together.

5. After waiting for a minute I decided to put the weatherstrip and door together.  What I used for indicators for alignment on the weatherstrip was to match the hole on the weatherstrip with the fastener holes. Try not to make a mess but if you do try your best to wipe off the excess adhesive. For me it dried too fast so I rubbed it off with my hand.

6.  Final Step. Let it dry for a few more minutes before closing the door. Surprisingly, it dries pretty fast and holds its strength.


It was a quick and easy fix for a few dollars. Really happy with the results and it seems like the weatherstrip never had an issue to begin with.

Nissan Sway Stabilizer Bar Bushing Bar Bushing Kit

Old vs new sway bushings.



So one day when I was turning left on my Xterra it made a thump sound. I researched and thought it might be a ball joint that has gone bad. So I did the usual test where you see if the wheel wiggles from side to side but there was no play in the ball joints. People have mentioned that you might need to tighten the sway bars bushing brackets. So I did it but still it didn’t fix the issue. What fixed the issue was spraying silicon lubricant inside the rubber bushing. I noticed the sway bar bushing was a little warped, so I went ahead and bought new sway bar bushing “Moog K200347 Sway Bar Bushing Kit” that looked exactly like the Nissan OEM.


Moog K200347 Sway Bar Bushing Kit


I installed it but it warped right away and the middle does not meet up. It’ll actually split apart. After a few months of driving the thump noise when turning came back so I googled to see if there’s any other alternative or aftermarket sway bar bushing kit. I did find a forum post that mentioned a person making custom polyurethane bushing kits but they were too expensive for my taste. I searched a little more and I found out that Nissan actually updated the sway bar bushing design “Nissan 54613-ZL10A” so its opening cut is not on the bottom but to the side. I actually called up the dealership and found them to be cheaper than most online Nissan parts website but the second cheapest place I found them would be through a seller on Amazon.


Nissan 54613-ZL10A is the model number for it’s new sway bar bushing. I actually bought these at the dealership since they are cheaper but the link provided is the cheapest I can find on the internet compared to other websites.

Here’s removing the old bushing. You can’t tell but its all cracked and split in warped after a few months of use.

The back view of the old Moog K200347 Sway Bar Bushing.

Top view of the old bushing.

Old vs New bushing. The white streaks inside are actually grease. Notice the cut is to the side and not the bottom.

Bottom view.

Bushing installed. It’s nice seeing it not warped.

I’m not sure if this is a placebo but it does seem like there’s less rumble in the front. Maybe because its fully closed? I also noticed the turning is smoother. Maybe because there’s grease on the bushing? But it’s a nice to see the sway bar bushing not warped and no more thumping sound when turning.

Nissan Xterra TPMS

Is your TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on and you already tried the TPMS reset procedure? It might mean you need to replace your tpms. From what I read their lifespan ranges from 5 to 10 years. Sadly, my TPMS only lasted 6 years so I  decided to replace all of them.

Here’s how you determine if you need a new TPMS:

  1. If you turn on your car and the TPMS lights start to blink for a little and then stay solid. It means that your TPMS sensors are not connecting to the TPMS system. You can try to do a reset procedure to connect it and turn off the warning lights. If the lights turn on again it probably means that your TPMS sensors are low on battery and needs to replace.
  2. If you turn on your car and the TPMS lights stay solid. You are lucky!  It means that your tires are low on air pressure and needs air.  Just fill it up with air and then make sure all the tires are the same correct pressure and you’re all set to go.



VDO SE10001HP TPMS good for the Second Generation Xterra and many other cars

I bought the VDO SE10001HP REDI-Sensor from Amazon.  I took it to Costco and had them install the sensors and program it. You can also use relearn procedure  to program them if needed.  They all function well and I do not have any issues so far.