How to: Acura MDX 2007-2013 no power windows, sunroof, gas/fuel door or rear door fix

So recently my 2008 MDX rear windows stop working. We recently replaced driver side window switch but that didn’t fix the issue, so I was wondering what other issue it might be. With some research, I was able to pin point the issue to the MDX window wire harness  or the correct term known as the door sub-wire. Some owners might develop a combination of issues such as fuel door, sunroof, rear hatch, or various power windows not working.  My specific issue was the rear passenger and driver side windows were not going down. What’s my guess to what caused the door sub-wire to have issues? After 10 years, with enough opening and closing the doors the wires will develop fatigue and tear off.  Luckily, the wiring harness was cheap and it was a simple 10 minutes job for me.  I’ll show you how I fixed it.

What you’ll need:

How to: 

1. Make sure you have a replaceable door sub-wire. The lowest price I can find on the internet was from Amazon.com

 

2.  Locate the sub-wires. They will be located in the front left driver side, in between the door and the car.

View of the left sub-wire

View of the right of the sub-wire

3. Pull back the left side sub-wire rubber grommet and plug.

It should easily come off. Feel free to use some force. 

What it looks like pulled back.


Use your fingers or a flat head screw driver to push on the top of the plug so you can release it. Push down and pull the plug.

4. Pull back the right side of the rubber grommet and plastic retainer. The plastic retainer might be a little stubborn. This is where the flat head screw driver came in handy for me. I wedged it in between the plastic retainer and forced it out.

I found it easier to pull out the rubber grommet from the bottom.


The plastic retainer might be a little stubborn. What helped me was a flat head screwdriver to pry it out.

5. Unplug, the sub-wire’s green plugs and clip under the dash. They are right next to the e-brake pedal. It helped me tremendously to push down the e-brakes for more working space.

I made three red circles in this picture to show what needs to be unplugged. Two green plugs and one plastic retainer clip.

6.  Once everything is unplugged. Pull out the wires from the front. (Update: Optional, you can read about Opus method on using the fishing line method to simplify step 7. Look below at the comments or click here)

7.  When everything is pulled out, feed the new wire harness back in. I found this to be the most difficult task. It might take a little jiggling, pulling the wire out and pushing it back in so you can see it from under the dash. A flashlight came in handy for spotting the green plugs so I can maneuver them.

8.  Lastly, put everything back and you’re done!

The Culprit

As expected, the reason the rear windows were not working was because of a broken wire.

9 thoughts to “How to: Acura MDX 2007-2013 no power windows, sunroof, gas/fuel door or rear door fix”

  1. Same here. Followed midnightime’s procedure with a couple of (hopefully) improvements:

    Before removing the harness back through the side of the car, tie a fairly strong piece of twine or light rope to the last green connector. This becomes a “fishing line” to help pull the new harness back through. Tie the end of the twine/rope to the back of the new green connector.

    On the new harness, I also put some shipping tape (or you can probably use masking tape, painters tape, etc.) to wrap the two green connectors against the wires. This forms a sort of pointed shield to keep the connectors from getting caught in the interior of the chassis and allows the harness to thread itself fairly easily as you pull the “fishing” line back through the interior.

    Took about 20 minutes total…found a broken wire, also, which kept my windows from operating.

    1. Hey Opus, thanks for the tip. The fishing line trick would have been really helpful. I didn’t think about that.

  2. Great step by step instruction, thank you! I spent $50 for the new harness, and saved $230 that the dealer would have charged for this job. I did the suggested fishing line trick with an old shoelace. I should have wrapped tape around the two new green plugs, as it would have made it easier to pull them through the hole without getting hung up on the other components. Just like the others, there was a broken wire in the old harness.

  3. Thanks for these pics. Nice job!

    I’m waiting for my new part to replace the broken ome but till then it would be good to have closed window 😉 Do you know which wire in window motor plug is responsible for going up?

  4. I think I have the same problem. I’m no car whiz but I can use a screwdriver. I called some mechanics and they want $120ish for diagnostics…One guy said the harness could be thousands….then I saw it on eBay for $35. I think I’ll just try this myself.

  5. This was very helpful and saved me hundreds of dollars! My passenger side windows, sunroof and rear hatch stopped working. I ordered the part on Amazon and only cost me $42.50. It arrived quicker than expected and only took about 30 minutes to replace using the fishing line technique that was mentioned. Now my blind spot indicator is showing me a warning but hopefully it will reset itself. I’m thinking this should be a recall issue with the amount of others that have experienced this issue.

  6. Thanks midnightme and opus! My 2012 MDX lost power (intermittently) to two windows, the moonroof, and the tailgate. Quick and easy fix using midnightme and opus’ instructions, saving me hundreds at the dealership. FYI the part number that midnightme quotes – 32757-STX-A00 – is for the 2007-2009 MDX: the correct part number for the 2010-2013 is 32757-STX-A01. Thanks again, guys!

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