How to: Acura MDX 2007-2013 no power windows, sunroof, gas/fuel door or rear door fix

So recently my 2008 MDX rear windows stop working. We recently replaced driver side window switch but that didn’t fix the issue, so I was wondering what other issue it might be. With some research, I was able to pin point the issue to the MDX window wire harness  or the correct term known as the door sub-wire. Some owners might develop a combination of issues such as fuel door, sunroof, rear hatch, or various power windows not working.  My specific issue was the rear passenger and driver side windows were not going down. What’s my guess to what caused the door sub-wire to have issues? After 10 years, with enough opening and closing the doors the wires will develop fatigue and tear off.  Luckily, the wiring harness was cheap and it was a simple 10 minutes job for me.  I’ll show you how I fixed it.

What you’ll need:

How to: 

1. Make sure you have a replaceable door sub-wire. The lowest price I can find on the internet was from Amazon.com

 

2.  Locate the sub-wires. They will be located in the front left driver side, in between the door and the car.

View of the left sub-wire

View of the right of the sub-wire

3. Pull back the left side sub-wire rubber grommet and plug.

It should easily come off. Feel free to use some force. 

What it looks like pulled back.


Use your fingers or a flat head screw driver to push on the top of the plug so you can release it. Push down and pull the plug.

4. Pull back the right side of the rubber grommet and plastic retainer. The plastic retainer might be a little stubborn. This is where the flat head screw driver came in handy for me. I wedged it in between the plastic retainer and forced it out.

I found it easier to pull out the rubber grommet from the bottom.


The plastic retainer might be a little stubborn. What helped me was a flat head screwdriver to pry it out.

5. Unplug, the sub-wire’s green plugs and clip under the dash. They are right next to the e-brake pedal. It helped me tremendously to push down the e-brakes for more working space.

I made three red circles in this picture to show what needs to be unplugged. Two green plugs and one plastic retainer clip.

6.  Once everything is unplugged. Pull out the wires from the front.

7.  When everything is pulled out, feed the new wire harness back in. I found this to be the most difficult task. It might take a little jiggling, pulling the wire out and pushing it back in so you can see it from under the dash. A flashlight came in handy for spotting the green plugs so I can maneuver them.

8.  Lastly, put everything back and you’re done!

The Culprit

As expected, the reason the rear windows were not working was because of a broken wire.

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Before I started this blog I was searching for a WordPress hosting company. The one’s I’ve used before were cheap in the beginning because of their “introductory rates” but eventually became too expensive when it came time to renew.  I didn’t want to start the next Google or Amazon. I just wanted a blog and didn’t want to spend that much money on it. I didn’t even know what I was going to do with this blog so why go all out? I decided to do my research and came across this company called NixiHost from /r/webhosting from Reddit. Prices were low, no gimmicks, no introductory rates, just honest and simple pricing.

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G502 scroll wheel no longer scrolling smooth fix

Once I gazed my eyes upon the G502 in 2013 I knew I had to buy it. Coming from the Logitech G9X  back in 2009 and experiencing free-scroll feature the first time, I fell in love with it and knew I could never use another mouse without that feature.  The ability to scroll from a bottom of a website to the top with one flick of the scroll wheel was so handy. After using the G502 for a couple of years, the free-scroll was no longer scrolling smooth. It’ll free-scroll a little and stop. Determined to revive the free-scroll ability back to my mouse, I decided to open it up, clean the mouse wheel, and apply lubrication. This article will show you how I did that.

What you will need

 

How to Fix

Step 1

Remove the bottom plate

 

Step 2

Remove Weights

Step 3

Use the 3/32 flat head screw driver to remove the mouse feet. If you’re trying to savage the mouse feet so you can reuse it, you can carefully pry one end of it and slowly use your hand to lift off the remainder.  Sadly, for me the mouse feet detached from the sticky part so be careful.

Step 4

What it will look like after you get the mouse feet removed. The 4 screw driver holes should be exposed. Then go ahead and remove the screws with the Philips PH00 bit.

Step 5

Once all the screws are removed, use the flat head screw to pry open the G502 from the rear bottom of the mouse. In between the matte texture and shiny texture.

Slowly and carefully pry it open.

Slowly move your way to the front.

 

Step 6

Once you have loosen the cover you can fully separate it. I used two hands starting from the rear of the mouse.

Step 7

Admire the internals and then get cleaning! There’s a lot of dust and years of build up inside the mouse wheel and axle. Be sure to remove all that trash.

Step 8

Apply silicon lubrication on both sides of  the axles.

Step 9

Reassemble, tighten the screws, and apply the new mouse feets. Enjoy your restored love for the G502.